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RE: Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
Replacing parts will cost MORE than just buying a NEW entry level awning and hardware. Entry level means a bare bones awning like the one you had. Manual awning. 1989, 34 YEARS, not 25 years:). Doug
Thanks Doug. I really appreciate your advice. It would be easier too I'd assume.:)
I'm really stuck in researching options. The options I'm finding on Amazon are unknown brands to me and they are running between $650 and $900. Since replacing the parts on my 34 year old awning would likely run me over $400, Replacing the whole thing would make sense. I'm really confused on what parts I'd need to replace to fix my old awning anyway. The cost of repair could approach or exceed the cost of completely replacing what I have if I can't find a used one that was pulled off an old RV.
In terms of brands and sources, does anyone one have any recommendations? I checked with an RV shop and they quoted me $2500 if they replaced it. I'd like to keep the cost under $1000 if possible, but am willing to spend more if it'd mean buying something that could stand up to another 34 years.
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mtnbbud
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10/03/23 09:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
Look at this assembly to see if that is what you have.
Dometic 8500
8500 parts breakdown
Thanks! I'm pretty sure that's it.
Heads up, A&E was into changing the design of the ends caps and the shaft during the approximate time your camper was built. Make sure the end cap and the shaft are the same exact style your awning has. The newer end caps and shaft will not mount on the prior vintage arms.
Also, the front and rear end caps on the tube are not the same part, one has the latch and the other does not.
The end of the awing tube is where the Sunchaser part numbers are for the awning, not on the awning arms. You have to have the awning unrolled to see the model sticker.
Posting pics of what you have really helps.
Thanks, I'm having trouble figuring out how to post pictures. The only button I'm seeing for adding pictures says to post a URL.
I really messed up and didn't save the awning tube. I'll probably end up needing to buy everything since I only saved the arms. I had no idea when it happened that all these parts are so expensive and that parts were still available.
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mtnbbud
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10/03/23 07:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
Look at this assembly to see if that is what you have.
Dometic 8500
8500 parts breakdown
Thanks! I'm pretty sure that's it.
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mtnbbud
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10/02/23 05:33pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
Thanks all. The sticker on the sides of the arms say: Universal Satin Hardware for A&E 9000, 8500, and 8000 FRTA.
I think that would indicate an A&E Dometic Sunchaser? One site I looked at said the torsion arms discontinued?
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mtnbbud
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10/02/23 05:14pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
Thanks. I'll try to get pictures soon. I don't have the ability to store the trailer at my house, so it may be a few days before I get back to my trailer to take pictures. I do believe it is a Dometic. The whole roller tube with end caps assembly will need to be replaced. I kept the arms, but didn't realize I could reuse the outer roller tube. (I probably could have reused the spring also...)
When I got home, I figured out that the problem started with the lift handle. The pin thats supposed to slide up from the handle wasn't lifting out of the retention hole. When I was trying to get the lift arms to slide, the rod holding the spring tension somehow broke free and released all the tension from the spring. I was thinking I'd just replace all the hardware, but I didn't realize how much it was going to cost me.
It's a 1989 18 foot Terry Resort manufactured by Fleetwood if that helps.
I did find another brand that is currently quite a bit less money. Does anyone know anything about Aleko? It's quite a bit less money than any other brand I have found online.
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mtnbbud
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10/02/23 12:57pm |
Tech Issues
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Replacing 25 yr old awning hardware
I had to dismantle my awning hardware in camp when one side of the rod that tensions the spring came loose. I'm trying to decide how to proceed now that I'm back home. The top of the awning that houses the springs ended up getting damaged as I wasn't thinking clearly and was on a tight timeline. The extension arms have seen better days, but probably could be reused if I purchased new awning lift handles. I paid $3400 for the 18 foot trailer 10+ years ago and have kept everything working as things have worn out.
I'm not sure it's worth the $750 to replace the awning hardware, but it is nice having an awning. Does anyone know of a good source for awning hardware? Have any of you came up with a different solution that you are happy with? I'm thinking I might just go without an awning as there are lots of times I don't extend it anyway.
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mtnbbud
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10/02/23 11:14am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hyw 199 from Grants Pass to Crescent City California
It will not be fun in a few spots, but it's doable. I just drove it in my truck a couple of weeks ago, but I wasn't pulling my trailer. Much of it will be fine, but there are some stretches that are very narrow and twisty with blind corners and a rock wall close up against the North Side of the road. You should be able to pull up pictures of the hwy using Google Street View.
Btw- We noticed a plume of smoke from a large fire that has recently flared up north of there near Agnes. That should be far enough away from there to not be an issue, but you may want to check.
If you plan on visiting the Redwoods, consider unhooking the 5th wheel when you get to Jedadiah Smith State Park and driving Howland Hill Road. No trailers are allowed on this dirt road, but it will get you up close and personal with a lot of big redwoods.
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mtnbbud
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07/21/23 12:04pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Willamette Valley to Whidby Island
Thanks for all the advice so far!
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mtnbbud
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07/20/23 04:58pm |
Roads and Routes
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Willamette Valley to Whidby Island
I am planning to pull my 18ft trailer from the Willamette Valley in Oregon to Whidby Island Washington. Does anybody have any route advice?
Should I take Hwy 507 and 512 to avoid Olympia and Tacoma? Should I stay on I5 even though I'll probably end up in stop and go traffic?
My wife is saying we should avoid using the ferry at Port Townsend. Does anyone have experience with taking their trailer on the ferry?
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mtnbbud
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07/20/23 02:57pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Is replacing the furnace worth it?
Thanks all. I'll likely pull the furnace out sometime when I get the urge to do some tinkering. It certainly wouldn't be a big deal to pull the motor out if and when that happens. Even if I didn't fix the furnace, I could repurpose that space for storage or something.
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mtnbbud
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06/04/23 11:59am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is replacing the furnace worth it?
I'll have to look up the make and model when I have time. It's a 1989.
I don't store my trailer at my house. I do remember checking Amazon for an exact replacement of the whole unit and it was over $700 to replace it with the exact unit. I'd assume replacing the fan would be a lot less. It might be a Suburban...
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mtnbbud
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06/02/23 08:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is replacing the furnace worth it?
Thanks everyone for your opinions and advice. I have been doing a little research on YouTube and seeing some very positive recommendations for those cheap Chinese built diesel heaters.
From what I can see, the US built diesel heaters are a bit too expensive to make it worth my money given the amount of days I use the trailer, but the cost of the Chinese knockoffs is reasonable as long as they don't quickly fail.
I'm not seeing anyone who has pulled out their furnace and used the space where the furnace was to place their diesel heater. Would this be a possibility, or would there be issues with the position of the fuel tank and the exhaust outlet? (I don't have multiple heater vents, the heat for my furnace comes out at the furnace.) Maybe it'd make sense to keep the diesel heater portable and devise a system where the heater is placed outside of the RV while the heat is vented in through the old furnace space? Are there any guidelines for the placement of exhaust from the diesel heater? I'd assume you'd want to direct the diesel exhaust far away from any windows.
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mtnbbud
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06/02/23 03:38pm |
Tech Issues
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Is replacing the furnace worth it?
I have an 1989 18 ft Terry Resort I've been using for awhile now and enjoy tinkering with updates and such. About 6 years ago, I had pulled out the furnace to attempt to fix a nasty squeak from the fan shaft. After pulling the furnace, I found it was manufactured in such a way that there was no good way to service the motor. I assume the grease or whatever they used to lubricate the shaft had dried up after 30 years of off and on use. I was able to drip some oil along the shaft which worked for a couple of years, but the squeal is back. I also found the furnace is a huge drain on my battery.
When I camp with shore power, I've been using an electric heater. When I need heat when dry camping, I've use a Little Buddy Heater while being careful to monitor with a CO detector and cracking the vents.
I'm currently considering replacing my furnace with a new one. Are the newer furnaces easier on the battery? Would I be able to fit a diesel heater in the spot where the gas furnace used to be while still keeping the external opening watertight?
My Little Buddy Heater has been performing just fine although I hate using those little disposable propane tanks. Being that the cost of a new furnace or quality diesel heater is so high, would it be worth the upgrade?
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mtnbbud
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06/02/23 01:37pm |
Tech Issues
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